Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna

Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna

by Lionel Terray (Author), Lionel Terray (Author), Lionel Terray (Author)

Synopsis

'I have given my whole life to the mountains. Born at the foot of the Alps, I have been a ski champion, a professional guide, an amateur of the greatest climbs in the Alps and a member of eight expeditions to the Andes and the Himalayas. If the word has any meaning at all, I am a mountaineer.' So Terray begins his autobiography - with typical Gallic arrogance, but typical commitment. One of the most colourful characters of the mountaineering world, his writing is true to his uncompromising but jubilantly passionate love for the mountains. Terray was one of the greatest alpinists the world has ever seen, and his autobiography is one of the finest and most important mountaineering books ever written. Climbing with mountaineering legends such as Gaston Rebuffat, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, Terray made first ascents in the Alps, Alaska, the Andes, and the Himalaya. He was at the centre of global mountaineering and climbing at a time when Europe was emerging from the shadow of World War II, and he emerged as a hero. The gripping adventures told within Conquistadors of the Useless capture the energy of French post-war optimism, a time when France needed to re-assert itself and when climbing triumphs were more valued than at any other time in history. Terray's death, in the Vercors, robbed mountaineering of one of its most passionate and far-sighted figures. His energy, so obvious in his book, will inspire generations of climbers for years to come. A mountaineering classic.

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More Information

Format: Paperback
Pages: 304
Edition: 2nd edition
Publisher: Baton Wicks Publications
Published: Dec 2000

ISBN 10: 1898573387
ISBN 13: 9781898573388

Author Bio
Lionel Terray was a central figure in the French post-war climbing scene, an early repeater of the Alpine north faces and an innovative expeditioner who played a key role during the first ascents of Annapurna (1950) and Makalu (1955). Born in Grenoble in 1921 he was climbing by the age of 12. During the war he lived in Chamonix and formed a climbing partnership with Gaston Rebuffat. Following liberation in 1944 he served with the mountain troops for eight months on the borders of Nazi-occupied Italy. In 1947, with fellow guide Louis Lachenal, he made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger. He was a major pioneer in American climbing, including the first ascent of Alaska's Mount Huntington, and seemed at the centre of every major new initiative of his era. His death in a strange climbing accident in 1965 robbed the climbing world of one of its most exciting and innovative personalities.